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Thai Trek ~ By Heather Seely

Archive for the 'travel' Category

I’m so far away, each step that I take is on my way home

April 5th, 2008, 8:29 am by Heather Seely

 On this, my last day in Thailand, I found myself reflecting upon my journey.  I remembered the first few days where everything seemed so new and different.  My eyes could barely see and my mind barely process all that was around me. 

After several days, I began to settle into my new country and time zone.  I was now less shocked to see four people on a motorbike or a dozen people in the back of a truck.  All the streets that had seemed so winding and confusing before, now developed a sense of organization and familiarity.

A couple weeks into the trip, I was feeling burnt out.  The end seemed so far away.  The food once so unique and flavorful, now all tasted the same.  And somewhere along the way, I felt I had lost myself in the tsunami of people around me.  One day during this time, I enjoyed KFC like I never have before in my life because it brought me a little morsel of home.

As the weeks went by, I started to feel more and more a part of Thailand as it grew to become a part of me.  When I would see white people or others who looked like me, I would condescendingly think, “farang.”  I was no longer a tourist.

A month into my journey, I was beginning to feel ready to come home, tired of short doors and stiff mattresses, but the siren call of the southern beaches kept me from homesickness.  As we said goodbye to the Rotarians, I did not feel much sorrow.  I had met many nice people and a small few who I hope will always be my friends.  More than specific people, however, I would miss all of the Thai people with their friendly attitudes and warm smiles.

During my last week in Thailand, the beaches followed through on their promise of being some of the most beautiful in the world.  The water was warm and clear, the skies blue, and limestone cliffs rose from the edges of the white sand.  No words can accurately capture the beauty of the area, and I wiled away my days frolicking in the waves and diving into the pools, each time thinking nothing could be more refreshing than where I was at that moment.  I even went snorkeling for the first time, and the first 15 minutes were some of the most interesting I’ve ever spent.  I never knew there were fish that were purple and aqua and never dreamed that I would be swimming among them.

And now I sit in an airport, waiting on the first of many flights that will take me back to Jacksonville.  I am ready.  I miss my family, my friends, my cat, and my bed.  But part of me worries that I have forgotten that life.  I have never been on holiday for so long, and I wonder if I can regain my normal life.  What will it be like to go back to work five days a week with no wats, motorbikes, or Tom Yum Goong (thank God!)?  How will I adjust to being nobody again when everyone here treated me like a beauty queen?  I will survive; I kind of like carrying my own bags and doing my own laundry. 

But I am sure that each time the scent of jasmine wafts through the air, I will remember all the garlands I have worn and know that I left a little part of myself in Thailand and carry a little part of it with me.

Paradise

April 1st, 2008, 1:01 am by Heather Seely

Beach

This is where we are now.  Heather is very happy.

The end is near

March 29th, 2008, 10:43 am by Heather Seely

For those who might be worried, no I have not died.  I’ve been having such a fantastic time in Chiang Mai that I just have not gotten around to writing.  After enjoying some of the small towns of the north more than the larger ones, I was a bit hesitant about what my experiences in Chiang Mai would be like.  But in each town we visited, people would talk about Chiang Mai in extremely good terms.

I am happy to report that it is a beautiful city (a bit more clean and modern than others we have visited).  The people, like everywhere else, have been fantastic.  It has been nice to be able to sample cuisine other than Thai, and it is the first stop on our journey where we have had free time to spend getting to know our host family and their city.  It has been an excellent experience overall.

And tomorrow it ends.  We fly to Bangkok for the day and for the first time will have some much needed independence.  The question is: Can we survive in a foreign culture without our lovely hosts?

I sure hope so.

Last stop

March 27th, 2008, 4:45 am by Heather Seely

 In my last entry, I was feeling a bit down and wondering what could pick me up.  The answer: shopping … and Oh.  I am now as excited as I have been the whole trip.

We have reached Chiang Mai, the last stop on our journey, and the people here have been very wonderful.  We got to go shopping at Ban Tawai wood carving village, which I had been looking forward to the whole trip, and we were reunited with our dear friend from Maechan, Oh.  It was such a great surprise to see Oh again.  After an amazing magic performance by some high school students he works with, we all hit the town.  I won’t divulge many details other than that we found out what time bars close in Chiang Mai.

Today we gave our final presentation to a noon Rotary club meeting, and tonight we are having dinner again with Oh.  Oh is always so genuinely friendly and excited to hang out with us.  If we were to vote on our group’s favorite person, it would probably be him.

In just a few short days, our journey will be over.  I am getting excited about seeing all of my friends and family back home, but I am also still interested in the wonders of Thailand left to unfold in the next week.

Burn out (again but hopefully for the last time)

March 24th, 2008, 9:50 am by Heather Seely

I’ve hit another bump in the road of my travels today. I am once again finding myself unenthusiastic. I was very tired and a bit grumpy. Although we saw a beautiful temple on a hill and more hill tribes today, my heart wasn’t in it; I had a bad day. I’m trying to figure out how to psyche myself up for the final leg of our journey when all I want to do right now is be by myself … and maybe cry. It never occurred to me before I left that when they said these trips are tiring that they meant mentally not physically.

Stuck

March 19th, 2008, 10:39 am by Heather Seely

Stuck in the middle

In the front of the boat in the blue is the captain of our long boat. He’s supposed to be behind me. Behind him is the dock where I thought we were supposed to land. We stopped moving, but we were definitely not at the dock. Instead, we hit a sandbar. The local Rotarians were using bamboo sticks to push us, and the captain waded into the Mekong River to finally get us unstuck.

The trip to Laos by longboat was a bit more exciting than what we saw when we got over there (the same cheap shopping as night markets in Thailand). But I must hand it to the Thais; longboats are quite the ingenious design. The ride is amazing smooth even when handling the wake of a barge. You just need to make sure there’s water under them.

Laos is more

The peak

March 15th, 2008, 3:30 am by Heather Seely

Arriving in Phayao (our sixth city in two weeks), we were all pretty exhausted. Our hosts told us where we would be staying but to grab an overnight bag for the night as we were heading for the mountains.

Normally, this would rouse joy in me because I love natural beauty. But how unclear are plans were (I was told the business skirt I was currently wearing would be appropriate attire; it was not) and how tired we all felt left me unsettled.

After another long drive, we spent a lovely afternoon with some Hmong children or hill tribes as they call them here, who first performed for us at their school and then toured us around their town.

Hmong

I was most struck by the contrast of ancient ways with modern life. In a contemporary looking home, a family of 27 shared a living space where the women practiced traditional cloth making arts next to the TV and DVD player. It was a strange juxtaposition.

The evening meal and accommodations were very outdoorsy, and Wendy and I were not too comfortable with them. Riding in the back of a pickup truck up a mountain was a bit reminiscent of my childhood on the farm, but I just wasn’t to sure of the food sanitation levels and was a bit nervous.

At 5 a.m. we were roused for a sunrise hike. At 6 a.m., we finally left. The half-mile climb was arduous, but the view and feeling of accomplishment were worth it. Although the white skirt and flip-flops I was wearing were perhaps not really hiking gear, I was glad I was not wearing the business skirt. And I didn’t even have the most inappropriate shoes — that award went to our host’s wife who had a bit of a platform heel.

Peak

This journey has been much like climbing a mountain. We have reached the peak in our trip, but there is still a long climb down.

Freak out

March 13th, 2008, 3:17 am by Heather Seely

As I have mentioned before, I have been hitting the wall lately. Today I was feeling on the verge of tears most of the day like all the excitement had gone from my life. And mind you, we did some exciting things — like visit an elephant sanctuary where we saw them paint (remarkably well, I might add). In the past 48 hours, all three of us girls have had a bit of a breakdown, but I did it in a much more dramatic fashion.

While at a Rotary meeting sitting next to the District Governor, the illness (headache, dizziness, nausea) that I had been feeling all day came to a peak. He asked me how I was enjoying the trip. In my state of deliriousness, I told him how much I enjoyed everything we have done but how exhausted and ill I was feeling at the moment (but in much greater detail as apparently the illness had gone straight to my head and turned off any filters).

All of a sudden, I started feeling extremely lightheaded again. Everything started to spin a bit. I gripped the table and tried to continue my conversation. It was not enough; I knew I was about to pass out. I excused myself and headed for the hall because it seemed like a better place to pass out than in a room full of strangers. (Roger told me later that my face was turning bright red during this time.) By the time I made it to the hall, I felt like I couldn’t breathe, but I kept thinking, “Don’t be the stupid farang, who has a breakdown during the meeting.” I couldn’t help it. I started hyperventilating then crying because I was so scared of how ill I felt and so embarrassed by it.

Roger, being a good team leader, immediately followed me out and tried to calm me. I was pretty much hysterical — crying and trying to gasp out that I couldn’t breathe. Our hosts brought some water and smelling salts as Peter, Roger, and Jamie tried to coax me back into normal breathing. Eventually, I started to regain my strength, and our host took Jamie and I home early.

I still have no idea what happened to me (though I think it was part physical and part mental), and I can’t quite decide if I was more scared or embarrassed (but I was definitely both). I felt like such a weak person and so humiliated. And now I add to my embarrassment by sharing it with you.

Journey into night

March 3rd, 2008, 3:46 am by Heather Seely

Somehow the 24-hour-plus trip and miraculous travel into the future went surprisingly well until we landed in Bangkok. When we went to queu up for a taxi, we were assaulted by different car services wanting our business. Since there were five of us and a hefty amount of luggage, we agreed. They were going to charge us 1600 baht total for our 40-minute drive, which didn’t seem too bad. It works out to about $50 or $10 per person.

So Mr. Big (yes, this is the name on his business card) hails us one of his vans, and we are on the way. Bangkok is not that exciting at 1 a.m. though I’m still finding the traffic patterns and drivers here fascinating. (It appears to me that the lines in the road do not separate lanes so much as suggest an area that you should straddle.)

Our driver, unexpectedly, leaves these strange streets and pulls over into what could best be described as a closed gas station where several people are milling about (including a guy standing by his car changing his shirt). Our driver parks the car and begins to get out announcing something to the effect that his shift is over, and another guy is going to drive.

As he walks over to the group of gentleman, one of whom is presumably our new driver, five different heads in the van simultaneously think, “Are we about to get taken advantage of,” or robbed, killed, maimed something. When I said closed gas station, I was being polite. Wendy, one of my travel companions, described it as the ghetto.

After we have had time to sufficiently worry and picture exactly when and where they would find our corpses, our new driver returns and we (try to) tell him our hotel. After pulling over in the middle of the journey once to confirm, he finally successfully takes us to the hotel.

Speaking of getting lost, our hotel was mammoth, surprisingly nice, and apparently confusing. Wendy, Jamie, and I after settling in decided to go down to the business center to use the Internet. The hotel is somewhat a giant loop, so we began walking the opposite direction from which we came to the elevators. We find some lifts, get on, but can’t find floor 1. We get off at 2. No good. Back up to 3 to try the fire exit. It takes us to a strange service area. Back into the hotel wandering around. Find the same elevators. For the first time notice the sign that says it does not go to the lobby. Find the other lifts. Find the lobby. Feel a little silly.

Lucky

March 2nd, 2008, 1:31 pm by Heather Seely

After over 22 hours of flying, my team and I have arrived safely in Bangkok. We left Saturday morning and arrived at the hotel around 1 a.m. Monday, which is kind of a trip.

While driving to the hotel, I noticed a U Turn sign (written in both Thai and English), and it made me realize how privileged I am to be born in the United States and to learn English from birth. Almost anywhere you travel in the world, English is both written and spoken. What luck I have to be born in a country where I learned it naturally.

I am not going to get into why it is that English is universally spoken and the political and historical atrocities associated with English dominance (though, for the record, Thailand was never colonized, so their use of English is because of the economic dominance and not oppressive forces), but I am just going to be thankful for the privilege into which I was born. Maybe you should be too.

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